For the concrete-pier-to-steel-column connection, one of the approved footing designs had a raised 16-by-20-inch-by-8-inch-high center section. The structural drawings called for two mats of #4 rebar at 10 inches on-center in each direction, top and bottom. After the homeowner excavated the holes for the footings per the manufacturer’s on-center spacing, we began to set the forms and set the rebar. The pergola design called for three footings laid out in a L shape. He also would select the canvas shading he wanted to use on top of the pergola and install it himself at a later date.įootings. He wanted to dig the footings, and later, install the deck boards with low-voltage LED lighting for the treads this left installing the footing rebar and concrete, erecting the steel pergola, and framing the deck to me and my crew. He was a capable, hands-on type of client he did a nice job building all his kitchen cabinets in his garage on his off time.
Where this house was located, in the center of Los Angeles, it would likely not experience wind speeds that great though in nearby Malibu, the Santa Ana winds can reach 70 mph or higher (in December 2011, the Santa Anas were clocked at a continuous 97 mph with gusts up to 167 mph in Malibu).Īs with the kitchen remodel project, the homeowner wanted to do some of the work. Per the manufacturer’s data, these pergolas can withstand a substantial wind load of 110 mph in an Exposure B urban-suburban setting. I was told that because the company sells pergolas nationwide, it has a universal structural design primarily focused on wind loads. Though heavy to install, the finish pergola didn’t weigh all that much. I contacted the manufacturer to find out why the footings needed to be so large.
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